Introducing - Earth Kitchen

Words: Steve Ryan   Photography by Steve Ryan

Introducing - Earth Kitchen

Skate wing, celery, celeriac, runner beans and spelt


Many of you will be familiar with Efes pool hall. A late night Dalston staple, it’s great for a game of pool when you weren’t quite ready to go home but were drunk enough to pay over the odds for a can of Red Stripe. It will always have a special place in my heart. Now before you get all upset at its closure, they have decided to sell up and find a new home (my guess is that their indoor crazy golf course took off and needs a new back nine).
EartH (the H is not a typo) is soon to take its place. Opening this autumn, Evolutionary Arts Hackney (EartH) will be a progressive music and multi-arts space run by Village Underground. Long before Efes, this site was an art deco cinema called The Savoy — in all my average pool playing, I never realised that behind the walls of the bar was a forgotten venue built in 1936, now once again set to be celebrated as a venue.
The EartH Kitchen (still not a typo) will be the hub of the building, where head chef Chris Gillard will be creating food that is broadly British but with a seasonal and vegetable-focused approach to the menu. It will be open during the day from brunch to dinner, offering quick pre-show meals and full menus for those that want to bunker down for some slow food.
We caught up with Chris before this issue went to print. He cooked us a Skate Wing in the old downstairs kitchen of the venue to the soundtrack of hammers and drills, as his new open plan kitchen was being assembled above us. Here’s the recipe.
Skate Wing, Celery, Celeriac, Runner beans & Pearl Spelt.


220g of fish per person
150g pearl spelt (or barley)
1 head of leafy celery (trim leaves and save)
½ head of celeriac, cut as funky angled batons
400g runner beans, stringed
and sliced
2 leeks, sliced
¼ bunch of parsley
Lemon juice


1. Wash and boil barley in salted water, as per instructions and drain.
2. Boil water in a pot. Then blanch the leeks, celeriac, celery and beans — one after another so they are all just cooked. Drain and hold.
3. Pan-fry skate in a heavy pan. Turn, and when nearly cooked, add the vegetables and blast with heat.
4. Add butter and take to noisette. Finish with celery leaves, parsley, capers, salt, pepper and lemon juice.
5. Serve immediately.