This feature usually supports chefs opening their own restaurant but this time it’s not lost on us that we are featuring a hotel group’s restaurant on Park Lane, Mayfair. It is most likely that Como Hotels do not need our press. With hotels in nine countries, they are doing pretty OK for themselves. This feature, however, is not designed to support the owners but to celebrate and encourage the dream team that is assembled to run it.
I went for dinner at Gridiron by Como the week following their opening and was surprised by just how many familiar faces were working there. On arrival, we were looked after by Jenny Willing, who we know from Dandelyan and The Curtain, Liam Davy (ex Bad Sports) was on the floor, and offering me my first, second and third cocktail of the evening was Alex Williams, who has kept me hydrated on many evenings at Black Rock. Behind the Pass was Colin McSherry, who is by far the happiest Head Chef I’ve ever known – his love for cooking is present on every plate he serves, and this evening was no exception. The name dropping doesn’t stop there: in the ether of Gridiron by Como is meat-sensei Richard H Turner, who is Executive Chef; the cocktail menu is by Max and Noel Venning; and Fiona Beckett leads the wine list. If there were a fantasy football-style game for restaurants, this lot would be very close to my line-up.
Park Lane may not be my favourite location in London. Most memories include marching down it for mass protests against Trump and Brexit, or trying to find a way home after a crowded concert in Hyde Park. It’s nice to have a new reason to go there and, for a change, feel welcome and at home in Mayfair.
One of the standout dishes that evening was the burnt leek. Colin has kindly shared his recipe with us. For those of you who don’t have a massive open fire kiln in your home, you can use a gas hob. In my case, with an induction hob, I’ll be buying myself a small blowtorch.
Ingredients
